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Travel Stories
 
Travel Stories, shopping hot spots, artisan jewelry, unique handcrafted jewelry & Fair Trade jewelry shopping
 
Some of Pangea Collection's favourite shopping, travel destinations and festivals are listed below. Click on the link to go directly to the selected destination for our personal insider tips. Check out the Pangea Collection blog for other travel stories.

 
Bangkok
Paris
Napa and Sonoma Valleys
San Francisco

Rio de Janeiro



Bangkok
Bangkok

Bangkok is my favourite place to shop of anywhere I have ever been. I love the city, the food, the people and of course the weekend market. Be warned you can’t be afraid of crowds, heat or pollution.

If you consider shopping a sport, Bangkok is definitely for you. Whether you prefer boutique, mall or market shopping; custom made suits, designer apparel, electronics or handicrafts Bangkok has it all. The prices are great as is availability of good quality items.

Shopping highlights:

Markets

The Chatuchak Weekend Market
The Weekend Market is open Saturday and Sunday from 9:00-18:00. This is the grand daddy of all markets! You cannot imagine the massive size of it until you actually go there (and get lost in it). It covers an area of approximately 35 acres, has more than 15 000 stalls and over 200 000 shoppers a day.

The merchandise available is as wide as your imagination. Everything from Antiques, household accessories, pets, clothing, religious artifacts, music, food, plants, really you name it, it’s there!

This is the single best shopping experience of my life but again I warn you it is hot and crowded and you can get lost! Watch your pockets, travel light, keep your money inside your shirt. I never had a problem but in some areas it’s so crowded you can see how it would be easy for a pick pocket.
Not only are the quality of products great but the prices are as well, and you can bargain. One word of advice on bargaining is not to loose something that you love over a small amount, it is easy to get caught up in negotiation and loose sight of the prize. Remember the value of the dollar or Euro to the Bhat and try to put it in perspective. The difference for you is likely very little but for the artisan it might mean the value of a meal around 34 Bhat or $1 US. Think about how much you would spend on a coffee alone back home. Have fun and picture your smile when you show the item to your friends and how proud the artisan will be for you having chosen their art.
The best time to go is early in the day before it gets too hot. You can arrive there by taxi or by Skytrain at the Mo Chit station and then walk about five minutes to the market (follow the crowd). You may want to save a few Bhat for a taxi back as you will be hot, sweaty and tired after all that shopping. You cannot do justice to the weekend market in less than 4 hours and even then…. Go Saturday and go back again on Sunday. Really it is that great.

Pratunam Market
This is a 24 hour market and is located near the intersection of Ratchaprarop and Phetburi (Phetchaburi) roads. It is known as a good place to buy inexpensive clothing and fabrics. The market is actually located behind the main road and shops.

There are many other markets in the city, but if you can only go to one, go to the weekend market. Actually it’s the only one you need to go to.

 
Malls and Other Areas
While personally I’m not a mall shopper, as part of a Bangkok shopping experience you should include the mall especially if you intend to by designer label items. Plus they have air conditioning, something you will appreciate, trust me on that one.

The Emporium, located at 622 Sukhumvit Soi 24. This is one of the finest shopping malls in Bangkok. Here you will find all of the designer outlet shops such as Gucci, Prada, Sony etc.

Siam Discovery Center, located at Rama 1 Rd. opposite the Siam stop on the BTS Skytrain. The Siam Center is a huge upper end mall.

World Trade Center, on the corner of Rama I and Ratchadamri roads is a typical North American mall.

Sukhumvit Road
This area is full of shops and some of the biggest malls in Bangkok.

Silom Road
This area is packed with outdoor shopping including fine jewelry shops, silk stores as well as tailors.

Tailor Made Suits

There are many shops that offer custom tailoring, especially along Sukhumvit Soi 11. Most of the shops will come to your hotel for fittings and deliver the finished garment to you as well. If you plan to have custom made suits you should try to do this early in your visit to allow for the two fittings which are typical.
Ambassador Fashion located at 28-28 Sukhumvit Soi 19 is one of the better known tailors and have been in business for a long time. They’re known for affordable prices and friendly service. You can get to the showroom from the Asok BTS Skytrain station.

A Good Map
Although I’ve never used it myself I do hear that the 'Nancy Chandler' (shopping) map is a great shopping map and readily available. Given the complexities of the street names, having map can be helpful and even then, good luck.

Getting Around
Sky TrainI love to walk, for me it is the best way to discover a city, but it is not in Bangkok. It’s hot and polluted. Take the Skytrain and when it is a few minutes away from where you are going take a taxi to the Skytrain. It is not like Paris in that a taxi driver will throw you out of the car for even considering a short distance fare. The taxi drivers in Bangkok know that they make more per kilometer/mile on the first part of the trip so they are happy to take you how ever short a distance you would like to go. Taxis rides are very affordable.

The Skytrain is a very pleasant experience and a great way to see the young Thai people. Each stop is announced in Thai and in English so it is really easy to get around. The Thai language is one of the most beautiful in the world. You may want to ride the Skytrain just to hear the singing voice of the stop announcer.

Other Experiences
Spend a day at the Oriental Spa (or if not in your price range another spa). Get a Thai massage, your body will thank you.

In addition to shopping and the spa you must make time to visit Wat Po it is the oldest temple in Bangkok and the golden reclining Buddha is a marvel.

Recling Budda
Enjoy and don’t forget to send your great finds to pass along.

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Hello fellow shopinistas, I hope you will enjoy reading this article below about shopping in Paris, with a little culture mixed in. I’ve focused on my personal favourite shopping area, the Marais. Everyone who visited me while I was living in Paris loved it too, so I feel pretty confident it would be a hit with you as well.


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Paris

While Bangkok is my favourite shopping city, Paris is my second. I love the area of the Marais especially on Sunday. When most elsewhere in the city is shut tight, the Marais is alive.

Paris


Sunday in the Marais
For me the ideal Sunday would be spent strolling the streets of the Marais with a break for lunch at the Las Falafel. If falafels are not for you, brunch is very popular in the area too. Keep in mind it is not like an North American style brunch. You will be served a little platter with a combination of items, it’s not a buffet. If you do go to Las Falafel, let me warn you that it looks a bit scary but the falafels are out of this world. You will be reassured by the long line out the door and down the street. Don’t be tempted to go to another falafel stand/restaurant, this is the one you want! I have yet to find a better falafel anywhere (granted, I have not been to Lebanon, yet) and for around 6 euros that’s a deal! Ummm, I’d love one now.
The Marais is filled with boutiques from upscale to very affordable. It’s a fun area to spend strolling in the afternoon. You don’t need a list of any particular streets or shops, just take Metro Line 1 to the St. Paul stop. The Marais is marked on the metro map as “Marais” below the official name St-Paul. Step out and admire the merry-go-round, cross the street and begin your adventure. Weave up and down the streets visiting the many shops.

Pompidou
When you’re finished strolling the streets of the Marais and if you are not too tired, stop at the nearby Pompidou, my favourite museum in Paris. Or just stop by the area (Beaubourg), take a seat in a café terrace and watch the world go by.

Personally, I think Pompidou is a must so if not after the Marais, make a special trip. It's huge but the exhibits are broken into specific rooms so you can see just the exhibits you are most interested in without being overwhelmed. If you have time, go all the way up to the top to George (restaurant) it is an amazing view and if the weather is nice, have a coupe or glass of wine there, don't bother with the food though, a bit pricey and not really worth it. There are a lot of cafes in the area (even a Starbucks!).

Areas near the Marais – Les Halles, Rue Rivoli
The Marais, Les Halles and Rue Rivoli all join and are fantastic shopping areas. You can easily spend morning until night walking these areas.
There are many great shopping areas in Paris and the range couldn’t be broader, from flea markets to Haute Couture. To list a few of the others which are worth a visit:

Rue Montaigne
It is now the haute shopping street surpassing some of the other traditional streets (stop by the Canadian Embassy and salute Canada). There are also great restaurants here but they’re not on the cheap but nothing is in this area, bargains are elsewhere, this is high end.

Area around the Opera – Printemps, Galeries Lafayette
Even if you don’t want to buy anything, you must go in and look at the ceilings in Lafayette, unbelievably beautiful!

 
Le Bon Marché
This is “the original” department store. It is a stunningly beautiful store, so beautifully merchandised. There is also a large international food market which is great to see even if you are not hungry, just look at how beautifully the French merchandise, even or especially the food. Everything is just so pretty!

Madeleine
Two of the big specialty food stores are here (Fauchon and Hediard) walk by the windows and see the artistry of the display.

Also while in the Madeleine area, do not pass up a coupe de champagne and a macaroon at Ladurée. There are two other locations including one on the Champs but this one is the original. Personally my favourite is the vanilla macaroon and I’m not usually one for vanilla anything, but this is anything but ordinary.

Also near Madeleine is a huge three level wine shop, Lavinia which is a must for any wine connoisseur.

Street Markets
It is wonderful to spend a morning wandering the markets like a real Parisian. Visit a cheese shop and marvel at the selection, pick up some flowers from a flower market or buy a bag of fruit to eat as you wander and a fresh pastry is a must.

Here are a few favourite street markets:

Rue Levis (in the 17th near Parc Monceau)
Rue Montorgueil (Beaubourg/Les Halles area)
Rue Mouffetard (5th)


Antiques
Head a little out of the way to the Saint Ouen Flea Market a must for any collector or admirer.

Coffee/Cocoa
If you love hot chocolate, hot chocolate French style is the only way to go. It is pure melted chocolate with a pot of steamed milk on the side which you mix yourself. I had a girlfriend’s daughter staying with me for a couple of weeks in Paris and I thought she was going to become a diabetic from her new found obsession with the cocoa.

Where to find Starbucks (if you must, which you might):

Les Halles
Opera
St. Germain
Madeleine
Among several others

For Chocolate Lovers
La Maison du Chocolat

Simply the best chocolate in my opinion and at about a million dollars a nibble (okay so I’m exaggerating) you’ll want to savour every little bit.


A word about getting around
The best way to see Paris is by foot. It is a spectacularly beautiful city, nothing comes close in my opinion. It has the best of everything and it should be seen from above ground. However when you spend hours walking in awe of the beauty, your feet are bound to be tired at some point. The Metro (subway) in Paris is fantastic. You can get to anywhere you want to go on the Metro and it is very affordable. Taxis are expensive and a pain but in the evening might be worth it, especially if the drive happens to go along the Seine.

Other Diversions

Museums
While you could spend your entire time shopping in Paris, don’t. It has the best museums in the world. The range is fantastic too, mammoth to intimate. My personal favourites, save the Pompidou are the smaller ones.

L’orangerie
L’orangerie which just reopened in 2006 after a four year renovation is not to be missed. It is a stunning exhibit of Monet’s water lilies. He painted them specifically for this space (it’s an infinity room). The 17 metre paintings brought tears to my eyes.

Marmottan Monet
If you are a Monet fan, there is another museum which is a little out of the way but well worth the effort. It’s called the Marmottan Monet. This museum is really dedicated to Monet’s work and there are so many large pieces of his work, they’re fantastic. Go to the lower level. Take a seat in one of the rooms and admire the work.

Petit Palais
I also recommend the Petit Palais, also just reopened in 2006 after four years of renovations. It was at the time free and may still be. There is generally a long line up but it’s worth it. Small but really beautiful inside, even if you are not into the art, the architecture is stunning.

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Rodin
If you like gardens there are two other recommendations for you. The Museum Rodin which has the Gates of Hell at the entrance, absolutely fascinating even if it is very dark. The museum is Rodin’s house and garden. The Thinker is there and a very popular “I was here photo op”. Inside the house you can see the moulds and different versions he was experimenting with to get the Gates of Hell among other sculptures just right.

Travel Stories
Luxembourg Gardens
Another favourite garden and museum is the Luxembourg Gardens. There is almost always a photography exibition on the iron fence which surrounds one of the entrances. They are usually very provocative in some way and brilliantly done. The gardens are wonderful and there is a small museum which often has an exhibition on, you'll need to check for the dates that you are there.

Making the museum experience more interesting
If you want to learn about the art, I highly recommend getting the audio headset, it can really make a difference in the experience and I think it's well worth it.

Theatre/Opera/Danse
Opera Garnier
If you can, get tickets to Opera Garnier, anything will do but even better if it's the ballet. If you can't get tickets or do not have the time, visit the Garnier for a tour. It is very inexpensive and a not to be missed site. The entrance, stairs and the rooms are all stunning, and don't miss the Chagall on the ceiling inside the theatre. If you do get tickets to a performance, you can act like a Parisian and during the intermission, go up to the balcony which overlooks the square, don't forget your coupe!

A word about the Opera Bastille
If you are interested in going to the theatre strickly for the perfomance, the Bastille is a wonderful theatre. But if you are looking for personality in the theatre, it's not the one for you. It is a modern building.

Other Info
In your hotel you should be able to get a copy of Where magazine, it will tell you all the major events happening in Paris the month that you are there. Even better, go to the nearest Tabac (newspaper/cigarette stand) and ask for a Pariscope. Absolutely everything happening that week is in there from movies to free concerts in the churches (these are worthwhile if you have the time). The Pariscope is published every Wednesday and is about 40 (euro) cents.
Any other questions about the city, I'll try to help, I think I could go on and on and on, you get the point. Send me an email with your question(s) at patricia@pangea-collection.com

Happy Exploring!

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San Francisco, Napa and Sonoma Valleys

Golden Gate BridgesWhile I've had the privilege to travel to many places I had never been to San Fran and Napa. Being a wine lover and hearing many great things about San Fran, it has always been on my list of must visits. The opportunity had never presented itself before now. I was not disappointed.
I started my week trip in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. I had originally planned for just one day however, it simply wasn't enough time.
Napa/Sonoma are about an hour drive outside of San Fran. You can begin your journey there by driving across the Golden Gate Bridge, not a bad start!
In my opinion the drive to Napa is not that pretty (keep in mind I actually arrived there from the Tri-Valley area, not San Fran) but once you are in the vineyards, it is very pretty.
The village of Napa is at the south end of the valley and it is a good place to begin your visit. Stop by the visitor's bureau in the centre of town and ask for maps and suggestions if you don't already have a planned itinerary.
 
Below are my suggestions, however since I only had two days, I wasn't able to visit as many places or eat as many meals as I would have liked.

Napa and Sonoma Valleys

Napa

In the village itself there are two vintage/antique shops. If you are into vintage clothing and/or jewellery both of them have a nice selection, one is right beside the tourist office. The second one is Antiques On Second located on, surprise, Second Street. I found a great vintage silver handbag for a mere $15.

Artesa

Just outside of Napa Village is Artesa. The name Artesa is based on a Catalan (the language of Barcelonans) word for "craftsman". Barcelona is the homeland of Artesa’s owners and if you’ve ever been there, you can see why this winery has artistic flair.

I really liked this winery and their wines, especially the late harvest. I liked the modern interpretation of a winery. They're not trying to be old world when clearly they are not. The building itself it built into the hillside and therefore blends into the landscape. The entrance features modern art with water as the main medium.

Once inside there is a little shop which even sells wine lip balm! More art adorns the walls and there is a fantastic deck which has a great view. You can take your wine tasting out to the deck to soak up the sun and scenery. 
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Yountville

This village is known for its restaurants and there are many, all of which were packed when we arrived. There is a French inspired bakery, Bouchon which along with sandwiches and pastries has macaroons. I didn't get to try one because the line was out the door and I simply did not have the patience to wait.

There are also nice shops including a few galleries offering both glass and paintings.

Domain Chandon

Just at the south end of the town is the road which leads west to Domain Chandon. If you are a fan of sparkling wines, this is a must stop for you. As you may know by reading my other articles, Champagne is my absolute favourite, so when I learned that Domain Chandon was owned by Moët and Chandon, I was there!

The gardens are beautiful and worthy of a stroll if you have the time. If you haven’t eaten yet you may wish to have a charcuterie plate with your sparkling wine. You have the option to purchase tasting flights or a better idea is just go ahead and buy a bottle, by far the better value. There are umbrella tables in the courtyard just outside the tasting bar, a perfect place to sip your coupe.

While I didn’t have the chance to try it, they also have a lounge which is open nightly with various events happening.

The one downside to this winery are the hordes of hen parties with loopy girls arriving and departing in limos/SUVs and buses. If you can put up with that, I’d recommend the visit.

Continuing north is the town of Oakville

The Oakville Grocery is definitely worth the stop. Great foodie products and picnic supplies if you are so inclined. If you plan ahead you can contact them to have a picnic ready for you when you arrive or just go in and pick up what ever fancies you. The grocery is located right on highway 29.

St. Helena

Cute, tiny, one main street with shops and restaurants.

Calistoga

At the north end of the valley is Calistoga. In general you’ll find Cabernet Sauvignon in the north and Chardonnay in the south end of the valley. The soil and micro climates are better suited to these grape varieties in those areas.

Sterling Vineyards

It’s a large winery but the view and the wines are well worth the visit. You take a gondola up to the tasting rooms for a self guided tour (you can also reserve ahead for a guided tour). There is a mandatory tour fee per person, with wine tasting it’s $20. You are served 5 wines in total along the tour. 

Sonoma

I loved this town's feel and preferred it to the other towns in Napa. It has a strong Spanish influence and lots of shops worthy of exploration.

San Francisco
Exploring the Neighbourhoods

Chinatown

While I went because you know you're supposed to at least see the tourist areas before leaving. It was for me not worthy of the visit but it did lead me to the North Beach area, which was definitely worthwhile.

North Beach

This is also known as the Italian district. Grant Street which is one of the main streets in the area has several shops. Worthy of mention are:

Ooma (Objects Of My Affection- 1422 Grant Ave
Very cute boutique with fashions and accessories. Owner Kate Logan was in the shop when I was there. Kate was really friendly and made some suggestions of other great boutiques to visit. I always like that.

Delilah Crown
- 524 Green Street
Another cute boutique also includes children's designs so if you are looking for a gift for a new addition, you may want to check out these original designs.

Ethan’s
– 1228 Grant Ave
Great value, fun items. They also have a second location on Hayes Street

Glamour Closet
– 114 Columbus Ave
Wedding Dress anyone? Beautiful designer samples at up to 75% off.

I Dream of Cake
- 1351 Grant Ave
The window is filled with imaginative designs that are not what you normally expect in a cake (they even have a handbag design), so if you're in San Fran for a girls’ getaway and happen to be celebrating an occasion that calls for cake, call I Dream of Cake (but do it way in advance).

Molinari Delicatessen
- 373 Columbus Ave.
If you happen to be in the North Beach area at lunch and don't have a need for comfortable seat and a bathroom but a desire for a grilled focaccia sandwich, the place to go is Molinari. This was a fun experience, it is busy mainly with locals but also some tourists. You pick a number (like at the deli counter) a bun or focaccia and hand it to the American Italian guy behind the counter and he makes one of the dozen or so sandwiches (I ordered the grilled focaccia special).

Stella Pasticceria e Caffe
- 446 Columbus Ave
After you eat half the focaccia (no one can eat that whole thing!) go to Stella's for a cookie. My favs are the Baci (kisses) tiny little joys in your mouth.


Russian Hill/Polk

The shopping in this area is better at the top/North end of Polk near Lombard. While you are there check out the crookedest street in the world (which apparently isn’t actually the crookedest street in San Fran, but the prettiest crooked street). Doesn't sound so interesting but it is beautiful. There are gardens all the way down/up the street, really beautiful. The street is between Hyde and Leavenworth. I choose to walk there from North Beach but unless you really want a work out, I wouldn't suggest it.

For some reason there are a lot of mani/pedi boutiques/shops on Polk Street. From the cheesy to boutique. Two that looked nice are Teashi 2340 Polk (same owner as I Dream of Cake, strange combination I think but also hear she owns a restaurant) and Lavande 2139B Polk Street. Though I didn't have time for a manicure or pedicure, after walking nearly 6 miles/9 km that day, I certainly could have used a pedi!
Cat Seto 2406 Polk Street
Love this store and it's owner. Wonderful pieces designed by the owner and a team of designers in house. The prices too are great. I bought a very cool silver cinch belt for $15. Plus the resident Boston Terrier is cute too, he was sniffing out my left over half of Molinari focaccia.

Lotta's Bakery
- 1720 Polk Street
Lots of cookies and pastries to satisfy your sweet cravings, in case you didn’t already do so at Stella’s.


Union Square

If you are a brand girl this is the place for you. All the big names are there, Louis Vuitton, Macy’s, Gucci, Ferragamo, Chanel, Pink, Coach etc, etc….

Even if you are not into big/high end brands, it is a nice place to sit and people watch for a few minutes, if you are walking up Powell you might want the early break.


Fisherman’s Wharf/Embarcadaro/Ferry Building

Personally I think the only reason to go to Fisherman’s Wharf is to see/hear the Sea Lions, then get out of there. My suggestion is to avoid Pier 39 where there are about a billion, okay half a billion tourists and go down the previous pier (I think it’s pier 41) you can see them almost equally well from there and avoid the crowds.

The Ferry Building is a popular spot to have lunch or dinner. A couple of the city's most popular restaurants are here, The Slanted Door for Vietnamese dining and Taylor’s Refresher for more casual dining (burgers). Neither of them is inexpensive. For a burger, glass of house white and sweet potato fries it was $18 USD. It was very good though. Another cute place is Lulu Petite for a salad, sandwich or quiche, less busy, less expensive and also very good.

There are a number of other eating and drinking places in the Ferry building as well. It’s not that big so a walk through is easy to do. Two issues with the building are it is extremely crowded at lunch, huge line ups which causes the second issue, insufficient washroom facilities. Apparently there are restrictions on adding additional washroom facilities as a result of it being designated a historical building.

On Saturday there is a farmer’s and craft market outside the building. It’s a nice way to spend a morning. The market runs from approximately 9:30 to 18:00 every Saturday.

If the crowds are too much for you at the Ferry building for lunch, just walk a block or two off Embarcadaro onto Mission and/or Market Streets and you’ll find more relaxing and equally interesting restaurants there. Here you are entering into the Financial district.


Financial District

Take a walk here for some interesting architecture and also good restaurants.

 
Bocadillos
Bocadillos is located in Jackson Square. The cuisine is an American interpretation of Tapas. The service and quality of food was excellent.


Civic Centre/Hayes Valley

This is the theatre/entertainment district. The buildings are beautiful, keep in mind it is close to Tenderloin (read about that below) so just be aware when walking there during non theatre events.

There is also some shopping on Hayes Street which is in the same area, it wasn’t my personal favourite but you might like it.

Two other shopping areas I checked out that I wasn’t crazy about are Mission/Potrero and Noe Valley. I did sense however that these two areas are in transition and will get more populated with shops. Of the two I preferred Noe Valley.


Cow Hollow, Fillmore and Haight Ashbury

Wanted to go but just didn’t make it, really disappointed too because I hear that Cow Hollow (Union Street) is a great shopping spot. I choose to visit a couple of museums instead. One cannot live on shopping alone!


A couple comments about shopping in San Fran

Other than Union Square where there is a huge number of upscale shops, I didn’t find a high concentration of shops in any one area. There are lots of great boutiques but they seem to be spread out across the city. Again one other area that I think would be good as it looks like there are a number of boutiques in the area is Cow Hollow/Union Street (not to be confused with Union Square).

While spread out, the experience in the shops was excellent. Most of the boutiques I entered were owner operated and the owner was there with either their baby or dog. They were all extremely friendly. I felt very welcomed and found the experience in the boutiques better than any other city I’ve shopped in. Of course there are great shop owners in every city but I consistently experienced this in almost every shop. That for me makes shopping much more pleasurable.

Not recommended
Tenderloin

This is an area that you will want to avoid if at all possible. The challenge is that it is right next to areas which are very popular, Market Street/6th and Civic Centre/Theatre district. I thought I was avoiding it and ended up walking right through. It was fine but I do admit I was uncomfortable. There were a lot of people on the street and a lot of noise (this is my polite way of expressing the activity on the street, if you know what I mean).


For a little culture fix

There are a few museums in the city including:

SFMOMA

The museum is actually quite small but the special exhibit on Matisse was very interesting and made the visit worthwhile. You’ll need to check in advance for what is on exhibit while you are there. 

After a visit in the museum walk across the street to the Yerba Buena Gardens, take a break and a look at the architecture around you including museum of course.

Palace of the Legion of Honor

This museum reminds me a little of the National Gallery in London, only much smaller. There is a great collection of Rodin sculpture, the second largest collection outside of the Rodin museum in Paris (see article on Paris for more info). There is also a great view of the city from the museum.

The museum is a little out of the way but if you don’t mind taking a bus you can get there no problem, or if you have a rental car it’s equally easy. If you are taking a bus and want to go to the Golden Gate bridge, it’s a nice drive from there along the coast however, the buses are any where from 15 to 30 minutes wait and you have to transfer, but really it’s not that difficult.

There is also the De Young Museum which you can visit on the same ticket as the Legion of Honor, on the same day. I didn’t have the time but if you are a museum fan you may wish to check it out. Plus it is in the Golden Gate Park (just note that the Golden Gate Park is not near the Golden Gate Bridge, go figure!).


Other diversions

If you like food and want to learn a little more about the city, you can try the Taste of San Francisco walking tour. Tom, the somewhat quirky owner, takes you for a walk through North Beach/Italian neighbourhood. You’ll try focaccia, pastries, olive oil, coffee, truffles and more.

While I believe that there are places to visit in the North Beach areas that have better quality food products (neither Molinari’s nor Stella’s was on the tour), it is an interesting walk and you will likely learn something you didn’t know about food and the city. Tom’s message is a good one, which is buy fresh, buy local and seek out the best in your own city. 


Architecture/views

The city’s architecture is really one of the best parts of the visit. Just walking around the city is a great way to take it in. Some interesting areas/buildings are:
Wells Fargo Building at Market near Montgomery, I would have killed for a roof top garden like this in Paris. The building is beautiful and the roof top garden is absolutely amazing!
The Victorian Stick houses – you will see them throughout the city. Many of them have been renovated and are very cool. I can imagine myself living quite happily (although with a big mortgage, they cost over half a mil at the very least) in one of these. The funny thing is that they actually were built originally as low income housing/subsidized housing (one of the tidbits you’ll learn on the Taste of San Fran tour)!

Another great experience is looking at the bay from the top of one of the many hilly streets, wow!


A word about getting around

Walking is a great but exhausting way to see the city. While I love high heels, and wore them all the time in Paris, this is not the city for them. You are constantly walking up and down hills between neighbourhoods. Wear flat comfortable shoes with a gripping sole ie not ballet flats with slippery bottoms or you might just find yourself at the bottom of a hill on yours!

One suggestion is to buy a multi day Muni (this is the bus/metro system) pass. The buses are a great way to get between neighbourhoods and this will save your legs. Currently you can buy a one day pass for $11, 3 day for $18 and a 7 day for $24. These passes include the use of the cable cars, a great value when you consider a one way ride is a whopping $5!


BART

Getting into the city from outside including the airport is very easy via the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit). Buying tickets for the first time though can be a little confusing. The auto default on the ticket machine is $20.00. There is an add/subtract button for $1.00 and also for $0.05 increments. On the side of the machine is a list of destinations with the corresponding fee to get there and also return. You can buy a one way or return. Find the amount and then add or subtract until you get to correct fare. You can pay by credit card or cash. The ticket will print out and you put it in the feeder at the entrance to the BART, it will pop back up and the gate will open. Take the ticket, you need it to exit the BART on the other side. Once the ticket has been fully used it will not be returned.

The trains system works by final destination. Find the stop you want and the final destination of that line and get on that train. Multiple trains share the same track so look at the screens to see when your train is arriving so as to avoid getting on the wrong one. They do announce the final destination on the train so as long as you know that it's unlikely you'll get on the wrong train. The trains are very frequent and there are schedules posted in the stations.

Biking the city/bridge

I had planned to rent a bike to cross the Golden Gate Bridge, ride through the Presidio and Golden Gate Parks but it was freezing the day we planned to go and I only had my biking shorts and my husband didn’t have a jacket so we chickened out, but we plan to do it the next time. If you are a cyclist I think this would be a wonderful way to explore the parks and you can ride across to Sausalito then take a ferry back (or cycle back). The bridge is a bit crowded as you can imagine. 

City Pass

Another suggestion if you are planning on visiting a number of tourist sites/museums and taking public transit is to purchase a City Pass. The one for San Francisco is $54 USD, they are also available at Costco for a reduced rate. I’ve used them in San Fran and New York. In addition to being a pretty good value if you use a number of the tickets, it saves you waiting in line, this is to me the greatest value. For San Fran it includes a 7 day Muni pass which is worth $24 USD alone. You can buy online or go to Costco.


A word about style

The styles in all the shops had a similar feel so if you like one shop you'll probably like the majority of them. The feel was definitely girlie. Now I know girlie is in this season but these shops were really girlie! I like this style so I found the shops to be wonderful. A couple of the shops I went into seemed to be beginning to merchandise their fall collections and they did seem less girlie.


Recommended Reading

Crave San Francisco, The Urban Girl's Manifesto - The ultimate guide to the places women crave in San Francisco. I picked up a copy while in one of the stores featured in it. I like a lot of the stores included and in fact you'll see many of them on my list above. It's well thought out by neighbourhood. Worth the $15 USD. Only warning is that the maps are NOT to scale.

While there are a couple of areas I missed, after walking about 15 miles/24 km over three days, I’m pretty familiar with the neighbourhoods I did visit. Have a question? Send me an email and I’ll do my best to answer it.

Happy Exploring!

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Rio de Janeiro

When most people think of Rio they think of Copacabana Beach and while it is spectacular, there are lots of other things to explore in Rio as well.

 

 
There are a few sites which provide an incredible view of the city, fascinating architecture and amazing shopping from precious gems to leather goods.   

While Brazilian fashion design is not as well known as it is for other countries, is among the top both in quality and in style (at least in my opinion).  The exuberance of the culture is reflected in the designs. And not to be forgotten are the Brazilian bikinis and an absolute must are the Havianna’s, often imitated never duplicated. If you are a shoe shopper, you will be in heaven in Brazil.

Here are some of my suggestions of things/areas to discover:

The Best Sites

Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf Mountain) is stunningly beautiful. You can take a cable car to the top. I’m told the view of Rio from here is amazing, I never made it. I just looked at the beautiful mountain from my hotel room. If you’re a 007 buff you’ll know that one of them (sorry, I don’t know which one) was filmed here.

Corcovado
This is the famous statue of Christ set high on top of a mountain. This is another one of the must sees that I didn’t because oh, I went shopping that day. Just so you don’t think that I’m a material girl, I was in Rio on a business trip and didn’t have a lot of free time. What free time I did have, I spent boutique shopping and eating those wonderful little cheese ball bread things (see the section on great food)!

Anyway back to the Corcovado, the statue is an Art Deco monument which is 30 m/98ft tall. You take a train then escalator up to the statue and marvel at the monument and the beautiful city below.

Copacabana
For many this is the reason to come to Rio. It is quite beautiful and the boardwalk along side of it is cool too. It is beautifully patterned in black and white stones.

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
This is a nice place to take a walk if you have the time. It’s a lagoon with an 8.5 km cycling and walking path around it. It’s near Ipanema. Very pretty.

Great Shopping

If you are looking for fine gems (precious and semi precious), Rio is a great place to go shopping. There are two main players in Rio, H. Stern and Amsterdam Sauer.

H. Stern often has a representative in each of the major hotels and will provide complimentary transportation to and from the store. There are a number of locations but the best is the one in Ipanema, it’s the main store and office for their international operations.

Amsterdam Saucer www.amsterdamsauer.com
The location in Ipanema has a store and a museum, which is completely fascinating. If you are interested in stones at all, I’d highly recommend it. It’s very educational, interesting and doesn’t take too much time.

Ipanema
This is a wonderful area to wander from boutique to boutique and discover what is so great about Brazilian design. You will also find some the best restaurants and evening entertainment in this area.

Centro
This is the old (centre) part of town and also where most of the monument and museums can be found. It’s best to go during the week rather than the weekend.

There are a few good pedestrian streets/areas for fashion, Rua da Alfândega, Rua Uruguaiana, Rua Buenos Aires and Rua Gonçalves Dias. These streets are full of shops, perfect for wandering.

Copacabana Boardwalk
On the weekend check out the boardwalk along Copacabana beach where a number of small independent artisans are selling craft and art items.


Great Food
I loved the food in Rio, although, I wouldn’t recommend it if you are either:
a) a vegetarian or b) on a diet!
I think I gained over 5 pounds while there for a week.

The most popular style of restaurant to eat at while in Brazil is called Churrascaria. You can also sometimes find these restaurants in North America and Europe. The style/concept is the same but there’s no comparison to the quality of real thing in Brazil.

The concept of a Churrascaria is a combination of a buffet (salads etc.) and constant pieces of meat on large spits sliced at your table onto your plate. The spits each contain one of many different types of meat. For example the meat might be pieces of chicken, sausages (we’re talking about 20 whole sausages on a single spit), full roasts of pork or beef, fish, ribs etc.

Okay so here’s how it works…imagine a guy with a long spit of this meat (like the size you see at the rotisseries full of chicken) he puts the pokey end on your plate, which is still in front of you and with a huge knife, slices it onto your plate from over your shoulder! Pretty scary stuff.

The parade of meat never ends. There are many men (I don’t think they call them waiters) who each bring out a spit of something and they go from table to table until the spit is empty. There is another guy right behind him with another type of meat who does the same thing. This process is constant and they keep coming. The restaurant will give you two cards or one with two sides. It’s basically like a green means bring it on I’m a carnivore and haven’t eaten in a week and red means, I’m about to burst give me a few minutes to digest! You can flip back and forth between the colours.

The absolute best of the meat choices is picanha, it’s a very tender rump steak and has wonderful flavour as a result of the seasoning. There are also other cuts such as fraldinha (bottom sirloin) and alcatra (top sirloin). The sausages are also excellent. Side dishes include rice, potatoes and beans and of course the salad bar. And no meal would be complete with out the little round cheese bread balls (sorry can’t remember the name), they’re to die for, and likely responsible for the 5 pound weight gain!

What to drink
Caipirinhas of course! This is the cocktail of Brazil. A Caipirinha is a cocktail made of Cachaça (similar to rum) sugar and lime.

If cocktails are not your thing, go for a Chilean wine, they are making a real presence in the wine world. Or if you are a beer drinker, there are local Brazilian beers, I can’t personally recommend as I never touch the stuff.

Metro/Subway
Although I have never myself taken the Metro/Subway in Rio, according to Frommers it’s safe and efficient. I would still advise against using the Metro or walking in the evenings where a taxi directly to and from your destination is highly advised.

Be Aware
A word of warning, Rio can be dangerous. Although since the early 1990’s the government has been tracking down on street violence you still need to keep your wits about you and never carry a lot of cash or wear jewellery. Be aware of where you are walking and take a taxi directly do and from any place you are going in the evening.

Do not wander into the favelas otherwise known as (shanty towns) found in and around the city. It is in these areas that the majority of crime occurs within Rio. The beach should be avoided in the evenings as well.

A word about the men…
They’re Brazilian, they can’t help it!

Happy Exploring!